It's always hard to drag Doug out of bed. I got up when the alarm went off, maybe a little before. He refused to move, suggesting that I leave a trail of taffy leading from the bed to the bathroom to entice him. I do, and eats it all along the way, adding to the already massive pile of wax paper wrappers in the garbage.
We walked toward Powell and Market to get our bus passes for the day, walking a few blocks parallel to ours and it was completely filled with homeless people stretched out across the sidewalk sleeping. Now obviously, I've seen plenty of homeless people before, but the concentrated amount was affecting and uncomfortable and irrationally guilt-ridden, we hurried through. I wondered if the locals knew the area to be like this- they must- and avoided it like the pre-Guiliani-era Times Square.
On the way back from getting the passes- that ended up being excessive and mostly unused- we looked for a breakfast place that Doug had read about in a guide book- the Taylor Street Cafe. Though we missed it on the way there, distracted as we were, we found it on the way back, and ducked in, allowing ourselves no more than a half hour to eat. The walls were covered, diner style in classic Hollywood idols- Marilyn, James Dean, Audrey Hepbern. They weren't the typical shots, either, but candids, self portraits. After ordering, Doug went outside to smoke a cigarette and locate an ATM to address the problem of the Cash Only signs we spotted scattered among the idols. I was halfway done with my breakfast when he returned.
We left, practically jogging for the bus station on Van Ness, because when I suggested the idea of riding the Cable Cars down to Fisherman's Wharf, Doug scowled as though I'd asked him to inject dirty needles into his eyelids. Being a tourist- or rather, appearing to be a tourist- is one of the more painful experiences for himn and I can't really blame him for feeling this way. We took the bus, catching it perfectly timed as soon as we got to the corner. It was a single bus, running on gas, not electric wires, and we took it all the way to the Wharf, marvelling at the ease of this trip compared to the previous day's walk which felt like eternity.
The line for Alcatraz was already wrapped around the ship halfway down the pier, and it was still ten minutes to the start of boarding. The warm weather cooled off standing on the top deck of the boat, leaned against the railing because there were no open seats, feeling our weight rolling back and forth with the waves. Doug wrapped the camera cord around his wrist, snapping shots of the Bay Bridge and San Francisco shrinking behind us. I held my breath every time the boat rocked, bracing myself, legs spread for balance, thinking about how in Jaws, the shark attacked the boat from below. And I know there are no sharks in this water, only fish and sea lions, but if enough sea lions got mad they could probably shake up some trouble, right?
As the boat docked at Alcatraz, we waited in the crowd below deck for the doors to open and the passengers to unload. We sidled up to a man in a park ranger uniform stuttering through his talk about the island. He doesn't say a whole lot, nothing I don't know and when we leave, I tell Doug that last time, my brother asked the ranger on duty who he thought was more of a man's man- John Wayne or Clint Eastwood, that last time my brother had doubled the walking time up the hill pretending that his hands and feet were shackled together, shuffling, head hung, eyes wide and dead.
Doug is tired of my sentences that start with "last time".
We did the audio tour, which meant that each spot along the way was crowded with headphone-wearing tourists, doing just what the recording commanded. It's a pretty clever trick, or could be, to instruct tons of people, explicit or subliminally, via tape what to do. In the right hands...
After touring the cell house, which was just as I remembered it, we stepped out into the recreation area where the Bay breeze stung any open skin. We barely made it ten feet before reconsidering, turning back. We took pictures of the city from the distance and hurried to catch the next ferry back before some German tourists who had been eyeing us asked us to photograph them in front of the city.
The battery of my own camera died snapping pictures of the Golden Gate- a good way to go I'm sure- and we decided to stop back at the hotel room to charge the batteries before heading to Haight-Ashbury. The plan had been to take the Cable Car back to Market Street- Doug complaining the whole way- and catch the bus from there but with these new battery charging plans, we went back the same way we came.
Doug was disappointed with Haight-Ashbury, comparing it to the trendier parts of the Village, St. Mark's Place. He is angry about people around him and he is angry so often that I don't know what to make of it anymore.
The area's different than I remember- maybe it's because I was there with my brother, but all I can place are head shops and DJ supply record stores. This time there are tons of "alternative" clothing stores, tattoo parlors. We stop a couple blocks from the park at a local coffee shop and though I offer to stay, Doug wants to leave, head back.
On the way, there was a band recording something at the corner of Haight and Ashbury, and on the way arriving, we'd seen a band photo shoot through a cafe corner window. For some reason, these things irk Doug, ensuring that he will never adopt the carefree attitude of the west coast.
Someone asks us for directions, we shrug apologetically, wondering why we are asked more often on vacation than at home, and whether or not this ought to be taken as a compliment, proof that we could probably fit in anywhere.
We go to the movies when we get back, walking into the theater at showtime. There were a couple of people waiting to get tickets and not wanting to be rude, I walked around the to the back of the line. Of course, not everyone was as considerate. On our way, two soriority-type girls took a look at us and ducked under the cloth dividers. And while they were doing that, another couple of women did essentially the same thing, walking right to the front, which meant that Doug and I had to stand their fuming. I wanted to sit behind them kicking their seats the whole time, but thought better of it.
The movie was okay, just okay and by the time we got out, I felt motivated to start writing again and I think that sometimes bad movies inspire me more than the good ones because I tend to think, "I could do so much better than this" as though there's some ongoing contest no one's keeping score of.
We get back to the room and write out postcards before calling it a night, setting the alarm for an early checkout the next day.





the postcard that had us hysterical for days:
